Experiences

Jaipur, the way we show it

Forts at sunset, kachori for breakfast, bazaars after dark. The places we send our own guests, with our tips.

26 places, one map

The pink sandstone face of Hawa Mahal, rows of small windows against a blue sky
Two Kalbelia dancers mid-spin in black skirts embroidered with mirrors
A pyaaz kachori broken open on a foil plate, with tamarind chutney

Sights

Four we never let our guests skip.

A courtyard garden at Amer Fort, arched halls and domed pavilions around it
Mirror mosaic and carved flowers on a wall of the Sheesh Mahal

Amer Fort

The grandest of the hill forts: royal courtyards, carved gateways and a hall lined with mirrors.

  • From 1592
  • UNESCO World Heritage
  • Allow 3 hours

Our tipA must for history and photography. Go in the morning, before the courtyards fill up.

About 7 km from the old cityDirections to Amer Fort (opens Google Maps)

Jaipur seen from the hills: a haze of rooftops running to the horizon
The fort walls of Nahargarh running along a green hillside

Nahargarh Fort

On the Aravalli ridge above the city, with the whole Pink City spread out below.

  • Built 1734
  • Best at sunset
  • Cafés on the walls

Our tipStay for sunset and watch the city lights come on. Inside, walk the corridors of the Madhavendra Palace.

About 1 km from the old cityDirections to Nahargarh Fort (opens Google Maps)

Mubarak Mahal at City Palace, a cream and gold pavilion in low evening sun

City Palace

Courtyards, painted gateways and royal collections in the middle of the old city.

  • From 1727
  • Royal family still lives here
  • Allow 2 hours

Our tipTake your time in the palace museums, and go in the cooler morning hours.

In the old cityDirections to City Palace (opens Google Maps)

Close view of Hawa Mahal: stacked bay windows with carved stone screens

The palace of winds

Hawa Mahal, in numbers

Built so the royal women could watch the life of the street without being seen.

small windows, which keep the palace cool
953
built by Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh
1799
storeys, shaped after the crown of Lord Krishna
5
front stairs: you enter from the back
0

In the old cityDirections to Hawa Mahal (opens Google Maps)

Two Kalbelia dancers mid-spin in black skirts embroidered with mirrors

An evening out

Chokhi Dhani

A village-style resort for a whole evening of Rajasthani food, folk dance and games.

About 18 km from the old cityDirections to Chokhi Dhani (opens Google Maps)

  1. A row of kathputli string puppets in bright costumes on a stage

    3 to 4 pm

    Arrive

    Walk the village lanes while it is still light.

  2. Kalbelia dancers spinning in embroidered skirts

    Dusk

    Dance, puppets, archery

    Folk dance, puppet shows and games across the village.

  3. Dal baati churma: baked wheat balls around a bowl of dal

    Dinner

    Rajasthani thali

    Dal baati churma and the rest, served until you stop them.

Our tipGet there by 3 or 4 pm, so there is time for every show before dinner.

Eat like Jaipur

Three things to eat where the city eats them.

The garden courtyard of Rambagh Palace, where Steam is
A mirror-worked archway inside Amer Fort, home to 1135 AD
A Rajasthani thali of small bowls on a brass plate

For a special night

Chai and coffee

A glass on the street, a cup on the roof, a proper coffee.

Markets

Bring a bag. Bargaining is part of it.

Seating area with cane sofas, a wooden coffee table and a floor lamp

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Bedroom with sage panelled walls and a mustard scalloped headboard

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